Have you ever heard of Mesopotamia?

My little boy was in the third grade when there was some big family gathering in Italy for a special occasion. We let the school know that we were going to take the children away for a week; given the grades they where in, you would think it wasn’t a big deal. Wrong! My third grader’s teacher chased me down the hallway to tell me, “Mrs B, you can’t do that to me!” Do what to him?! Apparently the teacher was of the opinion that my little boy should’t miss a second of school, let alone a week. I informed him that we were going to Florence, not exactly a remote deserted Pacific island.

Not a remote deserted Pacific island?!

After an eventful week in my beautiful native Florence we went back home to the U.S. and the kids went back to school. In the third grade they had just started History and the teacher was talking about American Indians. During our week abroad, between festivities my children had been at the Ufizzi Gallery and the Stibbert Museum. My little fellow let the teacher go on for a while about the American Indians after which, perplexed, he raised his hand and asked, “Have you ever heard of Mesopotamia?”

The Ufizzi Gallery seen from the Ponte Vecchio.

‘Living’ artisanal Tuscan food and culture in the Mercato Centrale of Florence.

This is a place where I like to spend time checking out, and savoring, typical Tuscan delicacies, people watching and attending events! San Lorenzo is a picturesque neighborhood, rich of local folklore and, with its outdoors famous market stalls offering leather goods and souvenirs, a tourists’ Mecca. While the outdoors Mercatino di San Lorenzo has today mostly become a tourists’ attraction, in the Mercato Centrale typical Tuscan artisanal food is sold in the downstairs stalls and prepared, sold and lived in the upstairs restaurants, often combined with events of cultural and social content.

Above are some of the cultural and social events organized by the Mercato Centrale during the month of October, in which the typical and genuine flavors of traditional Tuscan artisanal food, sustainability, science, music, women’ equality, environmental and many other contemporary issues, are intertwined.

The Mercato Centrale.
The Mercato Centrales doors.

When in Florence, I heartily recommend a lunch at the Mercato Centrale!

A zonzo a Firenze. A stroll in Florence.

Piazzale Michelangelo seen from the bridges on the Arno river.

I am enjoying strolling around my Firenze to the fullest and thought to share some of its treasures with you. These are all well known landmarks, works of the most genial artists who ever existed. I am more amazed at their breathtaking beauty every time I visit my native Florence. The city is not large which means that its myriad of masterpieces make every inch of it even more precious. like we Florentines proudly say, ‘Firenze e’ piu’ unica che rara!‘ (Florence is more unique than rare!)

From top left: The Torre di Arnolfo overlooking Palazzo della Signoria, the view from Costa Scarpuccia, our beloved Santo spirito, gorgeous Santa Maria Novella, the Brunelleschi Cupola di Santa Maria del Fiore (famously renamed the Big Red Ball by my young children), Ognissanti, my friend David, the magnificent Santa Croce, the Fontana del Porcellino, the Cestello at night, a taxi, Palazzo Strozzi with its fabulous mostre, the famous piazza with a guy on a horse as defined by my young children, a pescaia on the Arno river, a breathtaking sunset, the Battistero, the Fontana di Nettuno (aka affectionately Il Biancone), the roofs of the city with Palazzo Pitti in the left background, San Lorenzo, il DuomoSanta Maria del Fiore and the Campanile di Giotto, the Ponte Vecchio.

Should we take some time to wander about the Mercato di San Lorenzo? This is a fun place to go to if you want to take a break and give your brain and soul some time to absorb the overwhelming marvels of the city. Today the vendors aren’t exactly locals any longer and the Mercato is mainly frequented by tourists. The outdoors stalls offer leather goods, accessories and souvenirs. If you bargain enough, which you absolutely should do, you might get yourself items of quite beautiful leather from the concerie (tanneries) around Florence without overpaying for them.

Florence seen from the Piazzale Michelangelo.

I hope you enjoyed our stroll. The above masterpieces are a fraction of what Firenze has to offer; the city is a deep well of treasures in which every corner and stone is to be dearly cherished. Ours was just a short open air stroll; we will leave the museums for another time, I will need to hold your attention for quite a while for them…

All pictures were taken by yours truly and belong to my personal gallery.

Schiacciata con l’uva.

This is the yearly grape harvest time in Tuscany, and the recipe below, a Florentine’s specialty, is also called the merenda del vendemmiatore, the vintager’s snack. As most things that originated ages ago in the Tuscan country side, this is a very basic recipe that requires the simplest of ingredients and preparations while providing great delight.

Ingredients for six people:

2 pounds black grapes with seeds (as from the original recipe; their bitterish taste balances the sweetness of the fruit and sugar and give some crunch to the schiaccia)

1 pound leavened dough

1 cup brown sugar

extra virgin olive oil

What to do:

Knead the leavened dough with four tbs of oil and 1/4 cup of sugar.

On a baking tin brushed with olive oil stretch the dough to obtain a thin layer, cover with about 2/3 of the washed and gently dried grapes and sprinkle with two tbs of sugar and two tbs of oil.

Stretch on top another thin layer with the remaining dough, top it with the remaining grapes and make sure to seal the edges of your schiacciata.

Brush it with some more olive oil before putting into the preheated oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Cook for about 40 minutes.

For a richer flavor, while you knead the dough add a few leaves of rosemary.

Enjoy la merenda del vendemmiatore!

The Big Red Ball.

Here I am, in my native Firenze!

I was born and raised in this magnificent city; yearn for it when away, delight on its unequaled beauty when here and, like any Florentine D.O.C. (Controlled Denomination of Origin), feel so very proud of the ancient blood that runs in my veins. Like we, Florentines, like to state, Fiorentini si nasce, non is diventa. (Florentines we are born, we don’t become.)

Also my children, born and raised in the U.S., although not Florentines by birth feel a special bond with the land of their ancestors. They have visited Florence since they were weeks old and live the city like locals at their nonna’s (Italian grandmother’s), a stroll away from il centro (the city’s center) along the Arno river, and with their extended Italian family. They have been exposed to the art, architectural and natural wonders of Florence and Tuscany at large from the very beginning of their lives.

The Big Red Ball is visible from many locations in and around the city and as such is often a point of reference for directions. How proud would Brunelleschi be knowing that his masterpiece would eventually get such a practical, no-nonsense name?

Although the kids feel comfortably at home in the city and are well aware of living and breathing art while there, Art History hasn’t always been ingrained in their thoughts (Gelato artigianale and focaccia all’olio d’oliva are and will always be some of the most treasured pleasures Florence has to offer. Obviously?!) One of the first times my young guy went on his own to meet friends in centro, when asked if he was sure he knew how to make it back to nonna’s his reassuring answer was, “Of course! I’ll just have to see where the Big Red Ball is!”

Tuscan kale and Cannellini beans Crostoni.

I am about to leave to Italy for a two weeks visit home; while getting ready nostalgic feelings and recollections come to mind. Florence, Tuscany, ready or not, here I come! This recipe of quintessential Tuscan ingredients for a delightfully hearty dinner dish instinctively came to mind: some things run in your blood.

Ingredients for four people:

2 small bunches of Tuscan kale, about 8 full cups

1 can of Cannellini beans

2 finely chopped cloves of garlic

1 cup of vegetable broth

1 and 1/2 to 2 tsp of crushed Cayenne pepper, to taste

3 to 4 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

8 slices of Italian bread about 3/4 of an inch thick

What to do:

Wash and chop the kale.

In a pan pour the olive oil on medium heat, add the garlic cooking for about one minute, until yellow-brownish, stirring.

Add the kale to the garlic and cook for 2-3 minutes, until wilted, stirring often. Add the vegetable broth, Cannellini beans (drained and rinsed) and the Cayenne pepper.

Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10 minutes on reduced heat to soften the kale, still occasionally stirring.

Toast the bread well and put two slices on four bowls. Pour the Tuscan kale and Cannellini with their broth on top of the bread crostoni (they will soak up the flavorful broth) and serve, with Chianti wine. It will be easy to pretend to be enjoying a deliciously clever peasant meal in the Tuscan country side. Alla Salute!

Did you get a lollipop?!

With three children born in less than four years I often felt that I was entitled to a group discount at the pediatrician’s office; one kid would get sick, the week after it would be a second one, then it was the third one’s turn. At times the doctor felt so sorry for me (for my sanity, that is!) that he would ask the nurse to give me extra meds for free!

The kids had very diverse reactions to their pediatrician’s visit; our little boy would start screaming his head off, and obliterate mine, while still across the street from the office’s door. Our no nonsense May girl accepted the annoying visit with a stoic, lofty demeanor. She was surely thinking, “I am here to shut mommy up although I had better things to do with my time! Let’s get it over with!” I can’t recall her crying at any time. Goldilocks was something in between; she would get inside the office without needing to be dragged but if she eyed needles…Apriti cielo! Spalancati terra! (Litterally, Open up heaven! Open wide earth! In short, The Apocalypse!)

In those days to sugar coat (literally) the often stressful visits Saint Sue, the pediatrician’s nurse, was promising a lollipop from a large glass jar in the entrance to any child who would behave (then giving them out wether one had or not…). I would always remind the children about that treat, trying to divert their attention to, “What color would you like?” Never holding my breath!

Also mommy had to go to her doctor occasionally and my children (my darling girls seldom missed an occasion to monitor and reproach mommy’s behavior) demanded a concrete proof that I had courageously endured MY visit, especially when I was coming back with a bandaid on my arm. SO?! I resolved to keep a stash of lollipops hidden it in my bathroom; every time I had a doctor’s visit I brought four with me (obviously if I had been really good my doc would give me lollipops also for the three of them?! DAH!) As soon as I got back home from my visit my children would run towards me and enquire, “Did you get a lollipop?!”

Fun fact.

One time I absentmindedly went and came back from the doctor’s office without my bounty; the children caught me before I could sneak up to get some of the lollipops I kept hidden; boy was I in trouble! I couldn’t say the doctor’s stash had run out, could I? That meant the alternative reason for coming back without lollipops could be one and one only; I must have behaved really poorly! Mommy?! REALLY?!!!!!

Thankfully they still didn’t know about impeachmentPFEEEW!

Apricot nutty boats.

Summer is lingering on; here is a delicious aestival fruit treat fast and easy to make.

Ingredients:

8 apricots

1/2 cup of shelled hazelnuts

1.8 ounces of butter

1/4 cup of brown sugar

1/2 lemon

3-4 drops of liquid honey per half

What to do:

Soften the butter at room temperature; mix it with the finely chopped hazelnuts, brown sugar, liquid honey and the grated rind of the half lemon.

While warming the oven up at 350 degrees, wash and split the apricots into two halves, lightly dry them and remove the kernels. Fill all halves with the above mix of ingredients and spread them on a baking tray.

Cook for 10 minutes and serve.

Is Bau-Bau (Woof-Woof) coming to school today?

Our first born was around eight months old when he was gifted the adorable plush dog, BauBau, that was to become his inseparable security blanket. Bau-Bau was always with the baby and the baby always with Bau-Bau!

A few years later, when he reached grade school, our little boy would agree to separate himself from Bau-Bau for the duration of the school day. Until one day, in the second grade, he left to school grabbing Bau-Bau under his arm. I thought he might have show and tell that day but what I learned was a heartbreaking discovery. My little boy matter of factly declared, “I am taking Bau-Bau with me so I can play with him if nobody wants to play with me.” WHAT? Not only I hadn’t heard of bullying, yet, but could it start as early as the second grade?

In my little fellow’s case the bullying was never physical, it was psychological. The other kids would purposely mispronounce his Italian first and last name in order to make him feel different; even suggesting that his English had a funny accent (he was born and raised in the U.S), which most probably was a result of hearing his mom’s funny accent. My very sensitive little boy wasn’t a large or tall kid at the time, but didn’t cowardly retreat and endured those hurtful days with an unexpected aplomb, conscious of the fierce love and support of his family and, obviously, Bau-Bau’s backing.

The years have gone by but nobody has had the heart to dispose of the lump of mesh and plush Bau-Bau has become after much intercontinental loving. Although it doesn’t even remotely remind you of the cute plush dog it used to be, it still is stashed in a closet’s corner; you just can’t get rid of a loyal paladin!

Fun Fact...

By the age of 14 my guy shot up and surpassed most of his peers by at least half a head. About his funny accent? He fluently speaks three languages and can manage anywhere he chooses to go in the world. He recently came back from a 5 days/10 men bachelor party in Cartagena, Colombia, where he was the voice of the group, translating back and forth for guests and hosts to be able to comfortably manage a great time. There is a saying in Italy, “Ride ben chi ride ultimo!” “Laughs best he who laughs last!”

Pizzaiola scrambled eggs.

It is too late to make or get pizza for dinner but you want to treat your kids? A delicious and fast alternative is Pizzaiola scrambled eggs; it is a quick dinner fix with a pizza-ish (a new, cool word was just added to the English vocabulary) taste and the added bonus of eggs’ proteins.

Ingredients for three children or two adults:

4 large eggs

1 yellow onion thinly sliced

2 cups of canned Passata di Pomodoro (tomato puree)

an abundant pinch of dried oregano

2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

What to do:

Pour the olive oil, tomato puree, the sliced onion, a hefty pinch of dried oregano and a pinch of salt into an anti-adherent pan and cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes stirring occasionally.

While the ingredients cook beat the eggs in a bowl. Add the eggs into the pan with the other ingredients scrambling everything together and cook to reach your desired density.

Serve your Pizzaiola scrambled eggs with, or on top of grilled or toasted slices of pane Toscano (Tuscan peasant bread), Italian Ciabatta, Sourdough bread, and it will almost feel like eating pizza Magherita. Add a simple side of salad and in no time you have a deliciously healthy and complete meal on your table.

ENJOY!